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Wellington and the Peninsular War
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Retreat to Corunna - Suggested Itinerary

     

Day 1
With our private bus from Madrid to Salamanca; Check in our hotel just off the Plaza Mayor. Lunch in the village of Arapiles nearby. We walk across the great Roman bridge just as Sir John Moore did in November, 1808 and visit his residence cum palace. An evening tour of the old quarter and the best tapas in town.

Day 2
Morning visit to the city's two cathedrals, then north to Zamora where part of Moore's forces crossed the River Duero. A relaxing coffee break by the banks of the river short drive to the quaint medieval town of Toro. Here we walk the old road now no longer used which British soldiers, cavalry & artillery came along in December, 1808. The old bridge still stands so we are indeed in the footsteps of Moore's Army. Here in Toro we are VIP guests for wine tasting at a winery before lunch.
After lunch, we follow Moore's route as closely as possible, and by taking country roads, we will come upon the village of Castrogonzalo. In its long history, this village had one very important guest stay here, the Emperor Napoleon!
We explore the bridge over the River Esla and the sites where the British cavalry charged those of the Imperial Guard. A short drive brings us to Benevente and our overnight stay at the very impressive State Parador, once the palace of the Duchess of this town. She & her family fled at the start of the war which was wise as part of the palace was destroyed by the Scottish regiments!

Day 3
Following the retreat we head northwest to a charming Roman town of Astorga. Here on the last day of 1808, the bedraggled Spanish Army under the command of the Marques de la Romana arrived. Moore had to continue the retreat and ordered General 'Black Bob' Craufurd to take the Light Brigades west to the port of Vigo while the bulk of the Army continued on to Corunna. We drive to our overnight destination, the sleepy village of Villafranca del Bierzo. After checking into our cosy hotel overlooking the quiet little plaza, we enjoy home cooking at my friend's family run tavern.
Our bus takes us back a few miles to Cacabellos and the scene of a stirring rearguard action. The countryside remains almost unchanged and, from eyewitness accounts, we stand where the 52nd & 95th Rifles repelled the French.

Day 4 & 5
Lunch at Lugo with its impressive medieval walls. It was here that Moore halted and offered battle to Marshal Soult on the ground south of the city. The Marshal declined and Moore ordered the retreat to continue. We arrive at Corunna in the late afternoon. Our hotel is ideally situated overlooking the bay and beach. We spend two nights here to visit Sir John 's tomb in the peaceful San Carlos Gardens, a tour of the nearby Military Museum, the fortifications by the harbour, a walking tour through the old quarter and a morning at the hamlet of Elvina, the centre of the fighting on 16 January and where Sir John was mortally wounded.
Day 6
Early morning departure to Santiago de Compostela and our flight to Madrid.

 

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