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Wellington and the Peninsular War
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Pyrenees Campaigns - Suggested Itinerary

The Siege of Burgos, September - October 1812

After his victory over Marshal Marmont at Salamanca, Wellington entered Madrid on 12 August with King Joseph fleeing south. The British Commander's next move was to drive General Clausel's forces towards the French frontier and then besiege the mighty castle at Burgos. On 19 September the first attacks were made on the castle. Wellington brought fewer heavy guns from Madrid as his plan was to take the place by digging and mining. He had underestimated the strength of the castle and the resolve of the garrison and its governor, General Dubreton. By 20 October with the bad weather arriving and the castle still holding out, Wellington ordered a withdrawal west and into winter quarters.

Vista de Burgos

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

We first drive up to the heights where British suffered so many casualties in capturing the outer fortifications. Then we trace the line of trenches, as close as the Allies ever got to the main walls. Here we can really appreciate the efforts of the Royal Artillery, Engineers and the storming parties who unfortunately failed due to the massive defensive walls. After many years of repairing the great castle we can now visit both its rebuilt ramparts and, for those not minding a bit of a tight squeeze, a tour of the labyrinth of tunnels that served the garrisons over many centuries. After lunch in the old quarter we have time to visit the Cathedral and then a stroll through the old quarter.

 

The Battle of Vitoria, 21 June, 1813 top

On the 21st June, 1813 Wellington attacked king Joseph's army south of the city. The French baggage was enormous and although part had left for the border the day before the city was still packed with wagons, oxen, camp followers and a host of officers' ladies and their children. Although the French had cavalry and artillery at every bridge over the River Zadora blocking any attempt by the Allies to cross in force, a farmer came to Wellington at the village of Villodas to inform him a bridge, the Tres Puentes, was hidden from the enemy's view and unguarded. The Light Division was immediately sent down and crossed unmolested. On the right flank General Hill launched an attack as if attempting to outflank the French. Now Cole's Division attacked from the south and, belatedly ,Picton's 3rd Division. These successful attacks caused the enemy to fall back in good order but chaos abounded in the city and retreat turned to flight with King Joseph almost captured.

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

We visit all the villages and stroll across the bridge at Tres Puentes, unlike the Rifles who went double quick time. This is quite a time warp and an experience for those visiting for the first time. Another stop is at the village of Mendoza where we get a panoramic view of the whole battlefield with the Arienz hill, Joseph Bonaparte's HQ during the fighting. Finally to the bridge where General Picton roared his 'Fighting' 3rd Division into action. Lunch is at our friend's tavern just off the Plaza Mayor, then a photo shoot at the superb monument to Wellington & the Allied victory

 

 

Capture of Pamplona, 31 October, 1813 top

The mighty fortress of Pamplona was blockaded by a Spanish division after the Battle of Vitoria. The French garrison, commanded by General Cassan, were hopeful that they could hold out until a relieving force could come to their aid. They lived in hope until the last day of October when they finally surrendered having eaten every animal, dog, cat, rat but not, apparently, Cassan's horse!

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

Our walk takes us through the old quarter of Pamplona which still retains its narrow cobbled streets and although the city is famous for Hemingway and San Fermin bullfights, the once mighty defences are some of the finest in the Iberian Peninsula. Starting in the Plaza Mayor we head to the southern park and the mighty 18th century defences. Passing through the main gate and over the draw bridge we get a magnificent view of the walls & battlements. No wonder the Allies decided on a blockade to starve the garrison rather than attempt a siege which would have had little chance of success.

 

The Battle of Sorauren, 28-30 July, 1813 top

The hamlet of Sorauren lies a few miles north of Pamplona and it was here that Cole's 4th Division and Portuguese brigades held the heights (known as Cole's Ridge). Soult was determined to raise the blockade of Pamplona and re-supply the hungry garrison. Prior to beginning the attack Wellington arrived to the cheers of his men, although he was nearly captured while writing out new orders by the bridge as the enemy entered the village. Again the French advanced in column up hill and it was then that the 27th of Foot, the Irish Inniskillings charged twice with the bayonet under the watchful eye of Wellington. Cole's men held the high ground against repeated attempts to push them off. Soult finally gave up two days later and fell back.

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

First a coffee stop at the cosy tavern opposite 'Wellington's bridge' before proceeding up the dirt track to Çole's Ridge'. After a healthy 40 minute hike we reach the plateau and are greeted with a stunning panoramic view of the unspoilt Pyrenees. Right here Wellington saw, and duly added to his Dispatch, the charge of the Inniskillings. The hill opposite was where Marshal Soult launched his attacks and where he saw them all fail, despite gallant attempts to gain a victory and relieve the blockade of Pamplona. We will certainly need a hearty lunch back at our friend's tavern.

 

Combat at Vera de Bidassoa September - November 1813 top

The real Sharpe of 'Sharpe's Rifles' TV programme actually did exist! He was Captain Daniel Cadoux of the 95th Rifles and he and his company defended the bridge here at Vera until they were overwhelmed by superior forces. Cadoux was killed after being hit many times. Above Vera the French had built a series of strong earth work redoubts. before Wellington could order a head on attack, which came in the first week of October, there were political matters to be sorted out and agreements with the Spanish commanders.

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

Our bus drops us off just before Vera and we take the path along the Bidassoa to the quaint old stone bridge where a handful of Rifles held off masses of General Dérlon's columns. Half way over the bridge is a gateway & headstone to Captain Cardoux, the real Sharpe! Retracing our steps we return to the main road and walk the short distance to Vera where we have lunch, visit the original church where hand to hand fighting took place and see the remains of the French redoubts on the high ground.

 

Siege & Storming of San Sebastian, 31 August, 1813 top

San Sebastian, one of the most delightful coastal cities in Spain, if not the best, was the scene of a long drawn out bitter siege in the summer of 1813. Finally, on the last day of August, General Graham, one of Wellington's senior and trusted commanders ordered the Portuguese to wade across at low tide as the forlorn hope stormed the outer works. Timing was everything as British guns continued firing over their heads keeping the defenders from repelling the attackers. Once through the breaches the British troops ran riot, fires were started in many buildings and all the horrors of war upon civilians began. The French Governor, General Rey, and the remains of the garrison retreated to the castle perched high up on the craggy hill, only to formerly surrender later. Allied loses were just under 4,000.

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR
Normally we stay two nights in the delightful coastal resort in a hotel just a 5 minutes walk from the old town. using our 19th century coloured maps we can mark out quite easily where the defences once stood and where both British and Portuguese attacks were made. We walk the narrow streets to the church of Santa Maria then take the footpath up to the dizzy heights for a visit to the impressive museum and panoramic view. On the way down we visit the British cemetery and gun-emplacements.
Certainly we are spoilt for tapas lunch and dinner but we do have a few favourite taverns of our own!

 

Bayonne, South of France top

With an additional day we offer a morning trip over the border to Bayonne in France. We stop north of the River Adour to what is now a suburb but in April, 1814 the village of St Etienne. This is the site where the French Governor, General Thouvenot, launched a surprise sortie even though news had reached him that Napoleon had abdicated. The action ended with roughly 2,000 casualties from both sides. Recently the French unveiled a monument there dedicated to their comrades who defended Bayonne to the very end of the Peninsular War. We have a chance to visit the Cathedral and lunch in the old quarter.

British light dragoons, 
picture by de Beaufort

     

 

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