Captured by the French commander General Junot in November 1807 it was liberated by the future Duke of Wellington after the Battle of Vimiero and the 'Signing of Cintra,' Lisbon was the important port for the Royal Navy bringing troops, weapons and supplies from England. Many British eye-witness accounts tell of its beauty from on board ship coming up the Tagus and the dreadful stench when they landed! It was a very active place by 1809 with the presence of the Royal Navy, troops disembarking, the theatres full every night, horse trading for officers and the occasional whisper the French were coming to excite the over-crowded city.!

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

With the Society we have a morning's walk up to St George's Castle for a grand view of the city and River Tagus. Before lunch we take a boat cruise and get a sense of what the soldiers seeing the Portuguese capital for the first time. We have many options for the afternoon including port wine tasting, a visit to the Military Museum and a walking tour through the old quarter.

The first British landings took place here in the summer of 1808. The fort was captured by students & Portuguese militia thus allowing General Wellesley to disembark his British troops starting on 1 August. Within a week his force was ready and marching to south to fight the enemy in these opening stages of the Peninsular War.

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

With the Society we visit the fortress, walk a part of the unspoilt beach where those poor soldiers waded ashore under a glaring summer sun. Unlike them we relax and enjoy lunch & chilled white wine at a friend's excellent seafood restaurant situated right on the beach front.

The site of the opening shots of the Peninsular War, in August, 1808
In Michelin's Green Guide to Obidos it says the town has, '...managed to keep its proud medieval character through the ages. The fortified city, protected by its perimeter wall, flanked by small round towers and massive square bastions, once commanded this part of the coastline.'

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

With the Society we stroll through this delightful walled town and enjoy refreshments before taking the short ride to the Heights of Rolicia where the French skillfully held back the British attack before withdrawing in good order. Here we pay our respects to Colonel Lake whose grave, surrounded by iron-railings, can still be seen.

The surrounding farmland and rolling hills offer a wonderful view of the battlefield as observed by Wellesley. His troops were positioned in line on the high ground. It is easy to pinpoint the various places where the French columns attempted to break through the British Lines. Also still standing is the country house used as Junot's HQ ...was it here he drank brandy with breakfast prior to the battle?

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

 With the Society we visit the newly opened state of the arts battle museum with an opportunity to see the battle unfold on power-point screen. The museum sells ceramic tiles of the battle & the generals at a very affordable price. Our lunch is near the house used as General Wellesley's HQ. We drive to short distance to the coast A 10 minute drive to the coast where British reinforcements landed the day before the battle and it was here that Wellesley was rowed out to the ship carrying his superior commander, General "Betsy" Burrand to discuss the forth coming action.

Marshal Soult was on the north side of the city and, having all boats secured he was confident Wellesley's forces could not cross the great Duero. This meant he could order the evacuation at his leisure and unmolested. Wellesley & his Staff were observing the enemy from the heights at the Monastery on the south side of the river. It was a stalemate until news reached Wellesley that some port wine barges had been brought over by the locals (including a barbar eager to do his bit to rid the city of the French). So began the crossing of British troops, 30 at a time and expecting at any moment to be observed. silence prevailed from the French camp until sufficient redcoats were over making a convent into a mini fortress. Too late the warning came and the French were forced to start a hasty retreat out of the city

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

With the Society we walk over the enormous bridge and up to the monastery for a panoramic view of Oporto. Next we take a boat trip to the very site where the British troops crossed and so up the rugged banks to the convent. As we are in the greatest of port wine places we arrange a tasting at one of the companies along the south side before re-crossing the bridge for lunch.

This massive fortress town was expected to hold out for many months thus allowing Wellington's Army to withdraw deep into Portugal and to the Lines of Torres Vedras. Things did not go according to plan alas! Shortly after Massena's siege began on Almeida a shell exploded within the walls and lit gunpowder that had leaked from a barrel brought up from the ammunition shelter. Eyewitnesses claimed it was the biggest explosion they had ever heard. Much of the town was completely destroyed. Govenor, Cox had no option but to surrender the next day.

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

With the Society we explore the outer works and then a healthy walk to the remains of the shelter. The panoramic view from here is quite magnificent. Our lunch is at a friend's delightful restaurant a short walk from the main gateway. In the afternoon we drive down to the RIVER COA and the old stone bridge where Craufurd's Light Division held Marshal Ney's troops at bay.....but a near run thing indeed. The site has remained unchanged and very easy to imagine the fighting that took place here two hundred years ago.

On the 27 September, 1810, Wellington finally offered battle to Massena on the lofty heights of Bussaco. The French attacked in the early morning in two massive columns and were met by both British & Portuguese infantry in line. Their fire-power proved too deadly and by mid morning the French were back at their starting point after suffering heavy casualties.

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

With the Society we visit General Craufurd's post and then walk up to the obelisk dedicated to the Anglo-Portuguese victory. Here we enjoy a magnificent panoramic view of the entire battlefield. A short drive takes us to the 'Fighting' Third Division's position. It is amazing that the French ever considered attacking up such steep slopes. Was the great Marshal of France too occupied with his mistress?
Lunch of course is at the Palace-Hotel. We arrange visits to the chapel Wellington used as his HQ prior to the battle and the neat Military Museum..

The Lines were built under the direction of Colonel Fletcher of the Royal Engineers. Thousands of Portuguese civilians were employed in the construction of the forts atop of hills running from the Tagus west to the Atlantic. It was an stubbing feat unheard of in the Napoleonic Wars. That the Lines were kept a secret not only from the French but even the people of Lisbon was a minor miracle. It was here that Massena's invasion came to a sudden halt.

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

With the Society we visit the museum in Torres Vedras which houses some excellent artifacts from the Peninsular War and of course the history of the Lines itself. A short drive up to the fortress gives us an excellent idea of why Massena dared not attempt to break through. The fortress has been restored much as it was in 1810. Coming up from Lisbon we stop at the great monastery of MAFRA, used by the British Staff during the stand off at the Lines. Time permitting we visit PERO NEGRO and the house used by Wellington as his HQ.

Massena finally ordered a retreat out of Portugal in the early Spring of 1811. Wellington followed with a great degree of caution but hoping for an opportunity to cut off and destroy a part of the enemy. On the 3 April his chance came at Sabugal, close to the Spanish border. The town and the heights behind were held by General Reynier's Army Corps. A dawn attack was hampered by fog and the incompetence of Erskine who was in command of the right flank of Wellington's force. Although the French suffered 700 plus casualties they managed to withdraw in the pouring rain.

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

With the Society we have a stroll through this delightful Portuguese town, meet the Curator of the castle (Life Member of the Society!) and climb to the top of the tower to get a perfect view of the battlefield, heights and river crossed by the Light & 3rd Divisions.
Lunch at a very traditional restaurant with local wine!

A 10 minute drive from the Spanish border and Badajoz. Elvas still retains that impressive sense of strength of 200 years ago. Here Wellington kept his reserve artillery and ammunition. It remained in allied hands throughout the Peninsular War

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

With the Society we walk the narrow streets up to the newly restored British Cemetery with the graves and ceramic headstones of some of the fallen during the Peninsular War. We also visit the outer works with cannon and life-like figures of Portuguese soldiers dressed in period uniforms.

This is quite an amazing place to visit, north of Lisbon and close to the River Tagus. Logistically it was an important staging place for the British Army and there was much coming and going to and from the capital. The superb monastery was once the Knight's Templar and the great hall was, 200 years ago ,the Officers' Mess for many British Regiments.

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

With the Society we have a two hour walk through the monastery exploring the halls, monks' cells and the great hall and gardens.