Still smarting after his failure to throw the British into the sea followed by his humiliating retreat out of Portugal, Marshal Massena had, on the 3 May, 1811, a chance to defeat Wellington in battle. From the low heights above the boarder village of Fuentes de Onoro he ordered an infantry attack upon the British centre holding the village. At the end of the day Fuentes was still in the hands of the redcoats. After a day of rest Massena launched a massive flanking attack with his cavalry against Wellington’s right. The British were thrown back but with discipline, courage and later a counter attack Wellington was able to claim a victory, although he did admit that, “If Boney had been here we would have been beaten.”

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

Our journey from Ciudad Rodrigo to Fuente is only fifteen minutes. The village and surrounding countryside remains almost as it was in 1811. We can therefore stand along the heights on the French side to appreciate the problems facing Massena and to try and understand why the best of Napoleon’s Marshals insisted on a frontal assault against a strongly held British position. We stroll through the narrow lanes of Fuentes, visit the church and monument and other important sites. We take time out to cross the boarder to see the place where Massena’s cavalry almost, but not quite, broke the British lines. Lunch is on the Portuguese side of the boarder.