Ever since Portugal gained final independence from Hapsburg Spain in the 17th century, both countries, through distrust of each other, built massive fortifications on their borders. The Spaniards constructed Fort Conception opposite the great walled Portuguese town of Almeida. In the summer of 1810 General Craufurd, commander of the famed Light Division, ordered Conception to be blown just before the French arrived. Almeida suffered two dreadful episodes during the Peninsular war, one when a lucky shell from Marshal Ney's batteries ignited the gunpowder stores in 1810 and then the following year when the French garrison made good their escape after destroying the eastern walls.

THE SOCIETY'S TOUR

From our base at Ciudad Rodrigo we travel the short distance to Fort Conception. After negotiating our way through what remains of the main gate we explore the inner works used for stables for many cavalry mounts. Although badly damaged the works still offer a fascinating insight to garrison duty and boredom  for the soldiers within its walls. There are many anecdotes to be told of famous people who came here! We then cross over to Portugal and, after lunch, take a tour of the bomb cellars, walls, gateways and the outer ditches. From Ney's vantage point we can appreciate what a difficult task he had on his hands until that very lucky shell exploded.